I've been waiting a while for this - getting started on one of those fabulous Marfy patterns I mentioned last year, specifically the blouse from pattern number 2465.
As these patterns have no seam allowances, I used the technique Gertie used in her Craftsy bombshell course (awesome course, I have yet to even think about making the dress for myself but I still refer to her video every now and again). For those that aren't in the know, this very loosely entails:
1. Tracing the pattern onto your fabric, then marking a seam allowance around it (I'm using a nice wide 2cm for the practise run):
2. Then hand sewing along your seam lines with a brightly coloured basting stitch (for the purposes of the toile I'm cheating and machine sewing these - but for the real thing I'll do it the hard way):
3. Before matching up your seam lines and actually sewing your seams. Oh yeah, and picking out the basting stitches afterwards of course.
The most interesting thing here for me is to see what kind of ease Marfy allows for. This pattern was bought as a size 46, which is a 96cm bust (37.8"), a 78cm waist (28.3") and 100cm hips (39.4"). The website also lists a few more measurements which I paid zero attention too. Besides, Marfy say to pick your top based on the bust measurement, and garments for the bottom half by your hip measurement, just like all the other big pattern companies.
The biggest issue here? How on earth to transfer all of the pleat markings from the pattern to the fabric. For the calico version, this is simple - I just drew extended lines out with my ruler, then took the fabric away and drew them back in according to their length:
But I was at a loss as to how to transfer these markings onto the silk I was planning to use. To the rescue, Marina from Frabjous Couture and Rachel from The House of Pinheiro happened to conveniently put together a post on exactly this topic - which you can read here.
I'm planning to use a silk charmeuse half price remnant I bought on a whim, but which will complement just about everything in my wardrobe (and the things I'm still planning to sew before putting in my wardrobe!). It's a beautiful soft oak green in colour - I've got to stop buying green fabric! Geez!
Calico (even the lightweight stuff) is probably not the best fabric to do a test for a top that I'm planning to do in something much more drapey, but you get the idea. It came together very easily, and has approximately 6cm ease at the bust (it measures 50cm across the back - the front is slightly more due to the pleats), 18cm at the waist and 6cm at the hips. So I'd say it's fitted across the bust and loose in the waist and hips. Here's the test pilot:
I'm just loving the neckline! I only finished one of the sleeves, but I'm surprised at how well the lines of the drawing match the made up version. I'm dying to start cutting for the real thing :)