It's so exciting to have this outfit finally finished and wearable! It's been a long time in the making. I got distracted SO many times! And then it was stinking hot... so the last thing I felt like working on was a winter wool suit. But I eventually got my sewing mojo back and dived into getting it done like another life force had taken me over.
A few weeks before I finished this suit - intended for office wear, obviously, I got a promotion. A big one, too! The ironic thing is that I will now no longer be based in an office, but on site. Which means I'm swapping my carefully crafted office wardrobe for steel capped boots and hi-vis clothing. Hot. (not). It also means I'll no longer be able to admire this amazing view from my desk at sunrise: (click to enlarge)
The jacket pattern is Vogue 8739 I adore it - it camouflages a bit of a protruding tummy in a very flattering manner! I can see from the photos now that the darts the front are too long though - they should ideally be stopping before they get to the bust point. I'm annoyed I never picked this up! The jacket is supposed to be fully lined... but as I liked the structural seam lines on the back so much, I decided to try and emphasise them with a bit of contrast binding - I really love the finished effect, even if it is in hiding when I'm wearing it! I used the trusty catch-stitch to prevent all of the seam allowances from flopping about the place.
The jacket front and sleeves are still both lined, so it's super easy to wear. But I won't ever be doing this particular treatment again... it was tricky! It meant I needed to cover my shoulder pads with the wool so they were camouflaged, and I was at an absolute loss as to how to invisibly include sleeve heads, which it needed - there was quite a bit of dimpling at the shoulder seam on the sleeve side.
The fabric is a gorgeously soft brown wool flecked with orange and grey, from Emma One Sock - and was a dream to work with. Although if I make a work suit in the future I'll be looking for fabric with some synthetic content - considering how difficult it was to press in place, it's creased quite a bit from a day of wear! For the lining of both pieces I used a peachy tangerine silk charmeuse from Clegs - I do love a brightly coloured lining! And my love affair with Charmeuse continues - not only is it an amazing fabric to work with, but it feels divine up against your skin.
I was worried that my wool would be a bit too structural to give the softness the peplum required - and I think I was on the money here as it is a wee bit stiff (and not as floppy as I'd hoped). I would recommend anyone else who wants to make this pattern to stick with a more drapey fabric (like the ones recommended on the pattern sleeve!).
The skirt is from another co-ordinates wardrobe pattern - Vogue 8543. I love the curved lines on this skirt, and whilst it's a bit of a fabric hog (for a straight skirt, at least) it was good fun to put together and I love the visual result of all of those curved lines.
When it comes to the skirt - Vogue really needs to kick their editor up the bum for the inordinate number of spelling mistakes, references to incorrect pattern pieces and general confusion caused by the pattern instructions for this number. Oh yes. I won't even mention the mis-printing of fold lines on the actual pattern pieces.
|Glorious charmeuse lining and my added fabric facing at the skirt front|
I definitely take issue with the fact that there is no facing in this skirt - the lining is simply sewn on at the waistband - not even a whisper of a mention of understitching! Had I not been the wiser, this would be a disaster waiting to happen and I wasn't going to have my lining ride up. I modified the pattern so it would have a fabric facing at the front which was ditch-stitched down, hopefully avoiding that potential issue.
I am super pleased with my seam matching at the side zip though! Wool is such a friendly fabric to work with, so it was easy to baste, push and pull into place before sewing that zip!
My favourite part of this skirt is the kick pleats at the back :) Letting my inner geek out for a moment - I was absolutely fascinated with the pattern pieces for putting this together.
They allow for so much leg movement! Although it makes hemming a tad tricky (you need to cut the seam allowance so they will lay flat).
Back to the jacket - I did my usual trick of replacing the sleeves from the Vogue 8739 pattern and replacing them with my favourite sleeves from Vogue 8333. A much better look. You can check back here if you'd like to see the difference! I also drafted my own sleeve heads.
How do I like it? Very much so. I'm simply LOVING the peplum. It's a great thing being able to have a suit with a bit of femininity!