I've been having a ball getting stuck into this Marfy coat pattern, but it's thrown me a few curve balls, to use that universally understood American euphemism. Namely:
- There are no pattern pieces for the lining;
- I need to figure out how to do curved welt pockets,
Yikes. Thankfully, I've been able to find a lot of information on the interwebs around drafting lining pieces (like this resource by Sherry from Pattern Scissors Cloth), and it took many practise versions (and abject failures) to get a good finish on the curved welts. There was one blog post by Jilly Be Joyful who did a curved welt on a Japanese-style robe, which got me started. Still confusing as all hell though!!!
My first attempt at the curved welt pocket (photo on the left) - used the bias strip pattern piece included and just doesn't sit flat - there's a very definite ripple along the fold line of that bias strip. I attempted the same style again with different types of interfacing and that didn't work either. For the final acceptable result (on the right) I drafted a pattern piece to match the curve and sewed them together so there's a seam on the welt edge - giving a much nicer, flatter and more stable result:
Initially I completely over-thought the curved welt pocket process - it's actually very simple once you get your head around the process. The single welts I've done in the past have had the same backbones as a double welt pocket, whereas these are a true single welt - the kind you see on RTW coats (funny that).
The main difference is that previously the welt's I've made (like on my Sweet Shorts and Crimson Clovers) have been underneath the fabric, whereas these welts sit on top of the fabric.
Thankfully I've also been able to work on things other than welts, so here's where we are so far :)